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In parallel, Schiaparelli was the preferred designer for the non-public wardrobes of probably the most notable performers of the day. The picture was embroidered onto the reverse of this coat, with stitched golden strains creating an illusionistic fluted column below. Today, Daniel Roseberry continues this custom of crafting surprising and beguiling accessories to enhance the complete ensemble. The rococo hand mirrors on this jacket were inspired by the Galerie des glaces (Hall of Mirrors) on the Palace of Versailles. She paired jackets with both day and eveningwear, corresponding to this one with ‘cash and carry’ pockets.

Her tailor-made jackets for daywear have been equally distinctive, with bold buttons and outsized pockets. She revelled in public consideration and her personal wardrobe reflected a cosmopolitan life. Distinguished pockets, as seen on the jacket, turned a frequent characteristic of Schiaparelli’s daywear. She capitalised on the press consideration her clothes and private life obtained, designing a print with news cuttings about herself. Schiaparelli’s first solo collection, designed in January 1927, featured geometric patterned, black and white knitwear.

His jewelry can reference doves in flight, golden padlocks and bejewelled anatomy corresponding to hearts, eyes and ears. To produce these pieces, Schiaparelli collaborated with many talented specialists, together with Jean Clément, François Hugo and Jean Schlumberger. Its form was modelled on the dress form of actress Mae West, then in Schiaparelli’s atelier (workshop), and featured a measuring tape around the shoulders. Schiaparelli hired avant‑garde photographer Ilse Bing to create advertisements for her new trio of fragrances – Schiap for daytime, Soucis for late afternoon and Salut for evening. At the premises on Place Vendôme, a big golden birdcage, conceived by inside designer Jean‑Michel Frank, enclosed the fragrance part of the ground‑floor boutique.

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• The gold buttons underline the navy reference, their curlicue shape adding a contact of Schiaparelli humour.
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